Throughout the years of playing with stereo and talking to customers, I have came across many misconceptions or myths about car stereo.  Therefore, I put together a list of most misunderstood or confused things and give my explanations to it so when you are upgrading your system, you won’t get fooled by either sales person or even manufacturers.

Myth 1 – Best Way to Upgrade Your Car Stereo

Myth #2 – More doesn’t always mean better when it comes to loudspeakers

Myth #3 – subwoofer is for young kids only?

Myth #4 – Sound Deadening Material is a Waste of Money?

Myth #5 – RCA cable misleading terms

Due to popular demands, we have worked with top HID light manufacturer and bring you the ultimate HID conversion kit.

Many so-called high quality HID light out there have these problems:

• flickering
• does not turn on every time
• turns on but shuts off after hours of operation and sometimes minuites
• burns out after only using it for few month
• color change and intensity change
• damages the electrical system in your car

Q: Why does these problems exist?

A: The biggest reason is that it’s actually technically very easy and cheap to make a ballast (controller) or the burner (the bulb), but it gets hard and expensive to make a good one that last a long time.  For example, typical HID kit you buy in the market now uses simple low grade microprocessor with very simple firmware programming to control the turning on and maintaining a constant power.  But these kits are only designed under the assumption that you are using constant power source.  In a real environment, there are many factors you need to consider to ensure long term operation of the HID such as: temperature, supply voltage, supply current, is it switching type power source from the car, and even age of the bulb.  Especially for newer cars, the light bulb in your car isn’t turned on simply by a relay anymore.  There are actually dedicated ICs and drivers that powers and monitors the status of the light bulb.  So when you install a HID kit to newer cars, the IC in the car is not driving a simple light bulb anymore, and that would create a lot of problems and cause malfunction.

A good HID kit would have many safety precaution designs such as under voltage/over voltage shut off, open/short circuit shut off, reverse voltage shut off, and constant current monitoring.  Basically it would shut off when ever it sees any abnormal condition to prevent any damage to your beloved vehicle.

That’s why I have tried to find the safest and most reliable HID kit out there and bring them to you at the most affordable price I can.  Here are just a few key difference:

• True wide voltage rating: 9V~32V (Its wide voltage makes it way more robust and can be used on big trucks with 24V system).  Other HID kit are only rated at 9~16V.
• Super Slim style Ballast: make it much easier and when doing the installation.
• Fast turn on: these HID can be installed on high beams now and turns on faster than other HID kit on the market
• Safety function: Over/under voltage shut off, open/short circuit shut off, reverse voltage shut off, real time current monitoring.  When the HID is rated at 35W each, it would run at 35W, not 37, nor 30.  Giving you consistent intensity and prolongs the life of the burner.
• Dedicated German designed ASIC chip just to do all the work to ensure long term stability. (Typical microprocessors are just too slow to do all that.)
• 18 months replacement warranty from me!! (Not 3 month, 6 month, 12 month, or no warranty at all)
• Defective rate as low as 0.5%. Compare to typical 5% ~ 20%, and trust me, I have seen as high as 50% before.

Normally the HID kit with this kind of quality is retailed at $300~400 a kit.  But I was able to work out a deal directly with the manufacturer and bring them to you starting from $239!!!!

There is more, during the promotion period, I would install on your car for FREE!!!! **(basic installation only)

Call Jordan now @ 604 7736035 if you would like to order the HID kit for your car.

High Quality Philips Patent HID Kit from Taichang:　Regular Price $300/set

On Sale:　$239/set with free installation & 18-month replacement warranty

The owner of the brand new 2009 Lexus RX350 wanted to have more bass on his car. This car comes fully equipment and has Mark Levinson sound system installed. In my opinion, I enjoyed the stock system. It has very balanced, natural sound and very good sound stage too and I often found myself just enjoying the music and not listening to its flaws. The only thing that it’s lacking is indeed the bass performance. The RX350 has very big space inside that a small subwoofer at the back is not going be enough to fill the whole car with good bass. So all we did is to concentrate the bass performance

This install is a simple setup: one Alpine PDX-1.600 600w RMS amplifier with two Alpine shallow mount type S subwoofer and a 10 farad Capacitor to ensure good power supply to the amp. I have also used Rattle Trap from Fatmat as sound deadening material where the subwoofer is located to minimize vibrations to the car. Since the stock amplifier is conveniently located beside the spare tire storage area, I am able to tap into the signal from there and keep the signal run as short as possible. One thing I did differently is I used one channel of signal from front woofer and another from the stock subwoofer output. By doing this I was able to increase not only the deep bass but also some upper base to give it a more impact type of sound.

The customer wants to put the pioneer avic-z2 into his Range Rover LR3.  Since there is no mounting kits available, we will need to do the install from scratch.  I spent a good 3~4 hours fabricating the panels so it can look like a factory installed equipment.  This panel is harder to do because I need to bend the edges so it can integrate better to the factory panel.  But it turned out very nice and clean looking.  I originally wanted to cover the panel with leather, but later thought it looks better like this, so I kept it this way.

This is another straight forward install.  This specific model of CLK320 has a standard radio so all the speaker wires are conviniently located behind the stock deck.  but the deck doesn’t have regular acc wire, so the signal has to be run from somewhere else.  We also installed a BOYO reverse camera.  Everything was good except the signal I grab from the transmission is too low.  I ended up added a little relay to switch the signal to the deck.  Somehow the reverse signal has enough current to drive a relay, but not enough to trigger the deck.   But everything worked out fine.  Note the microphone is flush mounted just right beside the deck for blue tooth and voice recognition so you won’t see a ugly mic hanging any where that ruins the look.

I just did this interesting project over last weekend.  the client has a double DIN navigation system that wants to put it in the boxster.  problem is the boxster only has a single DIN space for stereo.  To do the install, we need to relocate the AC control unit to the storage space underneath the radio, that way we can create a double din space for the deck.  for boxster, there are kits available for double DIN deck installation, but some cutting, fitting, wire running still needed to be done.  after several hours of work, the end result is very factory looking and beautiful .

The client also bought a pair of factory rear speaker to be installed too.  He said that when he had the top down, at high speed, you can’t hear the music any more even if cranked way up.  By adding the rear speaker, it would make it sound much better and he can hear more clearly when he has the roof open.  since the factory speaker only uses 3″ full range speakers, the high frequency area needs a little bit more volume.  So I installed another pair of high quality fabric dome tweeter capped with audio grade capacitor to fill the missing piece.  I also attached 2 little piece of dynamat right on the center of those full range cones to get rid of cone break up noise and to extend the lower frequency part.  End result is very clear and natural sound with flater frequency response.  I am very happy with it.

This is a simple sub & amp installation on a 2008 BMW 335.  It’s actually surprisingly easy to do a sub & amp install on this car.  The car come equipped with Logic 7 sound system and the stock amplifier just happened to be conveniently located at the left corner of trunk area.  All I need to do is to find out which wire is for subwoofer underneath the front passenger chair and use that signal to feed to the Alpine 12″ sub that he has.  This car is very much like others that have factory subwoofers, there are already plenty of upper bass.    So we adjusted the sub to have low pass frequency of only 50Hz and filling the end where the stock woofer isn’t capable of.

Custom installation on a 2000 Range Rover.  The stock deck is a single DIN space, but we have put in a double DIN JVC GPS deck.  In order to do that, we need to cut away a lot of metal and plastic behind the console to create space without compromising any of the function.  A portion of the air vent was even cut out to make space.  Aluminum foil tapes were used to make sure no hot or cold air would come into the console and create moisture.  Because the customer needed to head out to Prince George the very next day, we only fabricated the covering panels out of ABS plastic.  It would have looked much better if it’s made out of wood finishing.  I will update the photo next time the customer is in town.

This is a fairly simple GPS deck installation, but because the double DIN mounting kit for ‘04 Matrix is a universal one.  Therefore, it created two 1/8″ gap at the edge where the deck connected to the black mounting kit.  I needed to fill the gap with glue gun and carefully remove excess glue to create a cleaner transition.  Can I make it better? Yes, but not without fabrication another ABS board and charging extra to customer.  This way, it’s simple and the end result is not bad either.  If you can’t see the gap of what I am talking about, then I have suuceeded.